The alarm went off at 3:45am in my Phoenix, Arizona hotel room. I rolled over turned it off and hopped out of my bed! Excited I was; but nervous was taking over more of my emotions. Mentally I had prepared myself for what to expect and had done the day's worth of hiking in the grand canyon 2 days earlier. Also, I had done the hottest hike I have ever done in 90 degree heat at 9am in the morning the day before with NO shade to stop and cool off. That hike was Camelback Mountain.
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South Kaibab Trail-Grand Canyon |
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Camelback Mountain- Phoenix, AZ |
Camelback, as much as I really do NOT like to admit this. But I didn't make it to the summit. I hate to admit it because I am such an avid hiker and this trail was so easy with all the switch backs and the mountain itself was so small compared to what I hike on a regular basis. Unfortunately, I had no idea what it was like to hike 1.6 miles one way, reach the summit, turn around and do it again all without any type of shade or a way to hide from the hot desert heat. I had reached about 3/4 of the way up and called it! I was shaking and sweating profusely. I officially felt early onset of heat exhaustion.
I knew what I had planned for the morning my alarm went off. I had planned to hike up to the highest point in the state of Arizona. Humphreys peak.
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Humphreys Peak |
There she sits 12,633ft in the sky. This would be a hike that would be more than double the elevation than I am used too. I prepared myself for it. Mentally. Physically I thought hiking in the Grand Canyon would help acclimate my body a little to higher altitude.
We took the right turn off of route 180 in flagstaff where I would quickly wake up by the sight and many slams of the breaks of every corner we turned. Here climbing from 7,000ft (Flagstaff) to the parking lot of the trail head (9,500ft) we had seen at least a dozen deer. The road was about 7 miles to the trail head. It was quiet and had a very eerie feel to it. Maybe I was just super nervous? Probably.
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Trail Head |
Roughly about 7:00am we hit the trail. We followed the trail across what was the Snowbowl Ski Trail into the woods. Right into the woods you walk for about a half mile and come to the true start. Here we registered our names and information into the hiker registration book.
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Hiker Registration |
Here it was; the first moment of excitement. I knew that this was really happening. This would be the biggest accomplishment I would have ever done in my life. 25 years of living and here it was, about to begin. 3.8 miles and I would be standing on the top of what I would consider the world.
Mentally, I prepared myself. I made sure I was well hydrated. I was afraid of getting altitude sickness and not being able to summit. I packed more than enough food and about 3.5 Liters of water. Started up the trail feeling great. Switchback after switchback we climbed higher and higher in elevation. I was waiting. Waiting for the first step that I felt really out of breath and winded. We reached the first opening view right by a rock slide where the trail then abruptly switched back to the right.
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First Rock Slide |
Because the view was calling us we stepped out onto the slide to take it in. Then after done snacking and taking a few photos we went to return to the trail. Without fail, we lost it. We had no idea that it had turned to abruptly. The trails are not marked well at all and I would not say are great for winter hikers unless you want to bushwhack. Every once in a while we would come upon a tree with an orange or blue ribbon on them marking the trail but not realizing they were there to basically tell you to turn to your left or right. Sometimes even following what looked to be well packed down flat trail in the complete opposite direction we were suppose to be heading in. This happened twice.
After looking at the map one last time and knowing exactly where we were on trail, I realized 11,000ft was in our very near future. The 11,000ft I was dreading in my head the entire time. I was told by many and read up on a lot that all said the exact same thing. You don't start to feel the elevation until about 11,000ft.
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11,400ft. |
I couldn't believe how good I felt at this point. I was feeling my muscles definitely working a lot harder for sure. I figured here was a great place to eat some more food. Considering the next stop was going to be above treeline and what I was guessing was going to be the hardest of the entire trek.
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Second Views |
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Dropping Layers |
Ok, it's starting to get warmer. Took off my polartech fleece and headed further up. The first of many "Final Pushes". At least, that is what I call them when I get close. We came to the second of open rock slides with an orange ribbon on a tree in the distance. Climbed up to this ribbon not knowing if we were on a trail or just a snowfield. I am thinking a random snowfield. SNAP. Just like that- no more ribbons in sight. Just lots and lots of old footprints that were crusted into the snow.
Screw it- The ridge was straight ahead above us. Let's just go for it. Up and up we went.. When I say up. We pretty much went straight up until we saw the first sign of the trail again. This was a tad bit difficult. Considering we were in a random snowfield. Conditions consisted of soft spring snow, that was slushy and deep. Post holing anyone? In other spots the mountain consisted of a dark almost black gravel that was not keeping our feet in one place. Boy, was I hoping I made it to the top in one piece.
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Trail Posts |
Ahhh- Relief! We finally found signs of a trail again. It went from ribbons to fancy posts that say "TRAIL" on them. And these were above treeline. Now, hiking above treeline the trails were clear as day as to where they were and how to follow them. Why wouldn't they put more time into doing that below treeline? Either way, I was happy pushed on just a little further and there it was..the ridge.
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Mt. Agassiz |
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Looking towards the 3 false summits of Humphreys Peak. |
Roughly at about 11,800ft is when it all of a sudden hit me. It hit me like a ton of bricks actually. Just as we approached 12,000ft. It started to hit me more like a mack truck for every 10-15 steps I took. I walked slowly ten steps forward and stopped to take a breath. Actually more like catch my breath. I walked slowly again and took ten more steps, stopped again. My pace was at about a turtles about 12,000 ft. I had one mile left with only 600ft or less left to go. This, in the Whites is easy. We reached about a half mile roughly around 11:45am. I had never wanted my lunch and food more than I did at this point. About 15 minutes before this point I started to develop a mild headache. I thought for sure it was just from not drinking enough water. So, we stopped to take a break, eat, drink, and I quickly took some aspirin.
I thought for sure it would take me the last half mile an hour to reach what I was looking at in front of me. I quickly ate some food got myself back up for another ten steps. Actually, this time it was to the next trail post. I knew I was so close. With my head throbbing for every step I took, I pushed on further and closer to my destination in the sky.
As I approached what would be the last trail post before i reached the summit sign, I took one last stop for breath. I looked up and I couldn't believe how close I was. I could see the one guy who had passed us on the way up standing right next to the summit sign. I finally got the energy to push through that last few hundred feet to the top of this Mountain I once would never have thought twice about hiking 2 years ago.
As I got about half way up this last and final push.. My throat started to choke a little and I started to tear up. I knew in my own mind it was a HUGE possibility I would cry. Sounds so lame, but this was huge for me. I stopped for my final last breath before I at a very fast pace trekked up to the summit! There it was!
Here I was. I couldn't believe it! My headache- Not even noticeable. My mind elsewhere. I was in absolute awe.
I quickly ran around the summit looking around completely speechless. Tears in my eyes (thank god for sunglasses). I took a few photos and noticed a metal box on the ground by the summit sign.
I knew exactly what it was. I opened it to sign the book that was inside. This was amazing. Not only could I say to others I've done it. It's written proof in a notebook inside this box. Proudly I signed my name. And finalized my visit by taking one last photo...
YES! I DID IT! It was nothing short of a beautiful but long, hard day. Shortly after eating we started our descent. Was for the most part much easier than heading up. My headache however never subsided. Only for the beautiful moments of reality that I had just climbed a 12,000ft mountain. By the time we had reached the car roughly about 3:15pm 8 hours after starting our trek, I took the gear off and sat down and BAMN. There it was, the headache had now turned into a severe migraine. With the extreme migraine came extreme nausea. For the entire ride back to Flagstaff I felt like death. I was slurring my words, starting to doze off a bit and then finally Walgreen's was right there. I got some Excedrin Migraine took 2 waiting about 45 minutes and finally started to feel back to normal.
All in all, I'm not sure if or when I will ever have the opportunity to hike this high in elevation again. However, if I do, I think that I will have to spend a few days at a higher elevation than 1,000ft. I am pretty positive that my headache was caused by none other than altitude. I was very well hydrated when we had gotten down from the summit. No questions there. This was one of the best feelings of accomplishments I have ever felt and most likely will never forget.
One can only say- hiking is a rush of pure joy, hard work, and great payoff. Continue to work hard and play harder. Great things and all things beautiful come to those who work hard for whatever it is they want. Mine just so happens to be reaching the summit of mountain tops.
Keep on trekking. . .
trip to self discovery is the hardest but the highest adventure on earth and gives you an expanded vision of what it means to be a human
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